Two Abbey Churches

A small part of a large flock of geese, which I heard before seeing them. 
They were at a farm between Les Eyzies and St. Amand de Coly.

This is the land of foie gras and rich food. Also of painted caves and churches. Medieval history. Castles. The border between the French and the English was here during the 100 years war, and castles face each other across the rivers. Little roads. Good, rolling scenery. Lots, but lots, of visitors. I visited these two churches over two days, one during a day ride from Les Eyzies, the other on my way to Sarlat.

Two abbatial churches. The first in Cadouin, south of Les Eyzies, the other north in St. Amand de Coly. The first, Cadouin, was Cistercian, the second Augustinian. Both date from the 11th and 12th centuries.

Aliénor of Aquitaine is known to have visited both abbey, and I determined to visit them after learning that tidbit. She was, famously, the wife first of the King of France, then of the King of England, and mother of Richard the Lionhearted. To add to that, she was educated, brilliant, politically astute, powerful, headstrong and beautiful, in an age that few women could claim all those things. The notion of following  something of her path in France was the instigation of this trip. That changed, because I won't get to the Loire this trip, but still... if she was there, I want a look.

Pause, pause....a break from writing.

OK, I admit it.  I am now in my room in Sarlat, having gotten behind in my writing and not yet posted either about yesterday's ride to Cadouin or today'sride here, via St. Amand de Coly. Plus, while reporting on those two rides, I was totally distracted by activity outside. Hence the pause. Here in Sarlat, an extremely well preserved medieval city, I am staying in a b+b (actually more like a small hotel) on the main square. Writing this, I could hear crowds laughing, clapping outside, so ... out I went and joined them, watching jugglers, gymnasts, magicians, street theatre ... very fun. It got very late. I got tired.

And so now, I will leave you for this evening with only photos. First, Cadouin. To me the cloister was far more interesting than the church. The abbey dormitory is now used as a youth hostel.

Hanging keystone showing a courtesan on Aristotle's back

The four walls of the cloisters, built in different eras, illustrate changing church architecture.
These are gothic and romanesque

The cloisters at Cadouin

Then St. Amand de Coly, where I stopped on my route to Sarlat today. About the ride I'll tell you only that it was very hot. St. Amand de Coly was a great stop, out of my way, and I was very glad to visit there.

The entrance to the church, from across the square

The color of this church was impossible to capture, veering either to too pink or too grey.

Easy to imagine a large abbey here, supporting and administering the town around it. 

If jongleurs, jesters, troubadors, etc, who were famously present in Aliénor's courts were not in the abbeys, they certainly were not far away. Whatever is happening out there right now in Sarlat is to the sound of  Leonard Bernstein's Carmina Burana.


View Les Eyzies to Sarlat in a larger map

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Les Eyzies Loop

The flat Dordogne.

Days spent cycle touring do not always turn out as planned. That is one of the things that I love about touring, and this one followed that pattern. From Les Eyzies, I set out this morning on a loop ride to the south and east, to visit Urval, Cadouin, and Cingle de Trémolat, along with anything else of interest enroute. The morning began cool, a bit misty, and I was happy to have my jacket along as my route crisscrossed the Dordogne and Vézère Rivers.

The vineyards of the St. Emilion area have given way to corn fields (presumably food for the geese and ducks, for which the region is famous) and plum, apple and walnut groves.

Walnut grove, next to a road typical of those I rode on. There was a much younger grove across the street.

My route took me through a gentle, rolling countryside. Although I know that the region's climate and flora have totally changed, still it is easy to make up an imaginary story up about prehistoric people living here. There are so many caves visible in the cliffs, and signs for grottes and caves abound.

Dordogne countryside

The roads were somewhat busier than I anticipated, and soon enough I decided to turn off and follow little roads. That does not mean little roads that have route numbers indicated on my map. Twice today young men in Tourist Bureaus were so helpful, one drawing me a route out of his town and across the countryside on little roads. The other actually walking me to the start of the route, and carefully explaining the turns. Both warned me that the roads would climb. I reassured them it was ok, thinking that so many of the side roads go up and over hills, not around, and though slow, I am a determined climber.

Today's route followed many small roads enroute to Cadouin

I include the photo of the car to give you a visual on what I mean by "little roads." This must be my favorite kind of riding, on these little roads of France.

Frequently the smell of mint filled the air when a car passed me, left wheels off the road.

As I've said before, one very enjoyable things about cycling is paying attention to the smells offered up in the world around me. I noticed a familiar one, but could not place it ... until I came across this tobacco drying barn.

Tobacco drying barn. 

Coming to an intersection, this sign jumped off the barn wall at me, I suppose since I learned to sew on an old Singer machine. Stopped to take the picture, this young cat came over to investigate, and seemed to want to come along. I had explained that I had no food to offer.

My first stop was to be Urval, site of a fortified church I wanted to visit. It was certainly fortified, unfortunately it was also locked. But I was fortunate to inspect the nearby 15th century communal oven.

Fortified, and locked, church at Urval.

The town was beautiful, and I took a few photos before continuing on to Cadouin.

Communal oven.

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