September 25, 2013

Montcaret to Les Eyzies

L'Arc en Ciel

Last night's bed and breakfast, L'Arc en Ciel in Montcaret was extraordinary! My hostesses Sue and Catherine, couldn't have been more welcoming and gracious. Their house is old ... the first recorded inhabitants lived there in the 11th century. The hamlet was certainly occupied long before that, and still contains many structures dating from that era, including the building used for baking. Of course, the buildings have changed a great deal ... gotten higher, added wings, added electricity. But the history remains.

Sue and Catherine sent me off with lunch ... for two, as it worked out. Thanks!

My bedroom, and all of the guest quarters, were comfortable and beautiful. I didn't get in the pool, but did have a bit of time to enjoy the views. Dinner and breakfast were both delicious. They packed lunch, unasked, and that kindness was a lifesaver because stores here are closed on Sundays, and I was not well prepared.

The calm Dordogne

This was some of the prettiest riding near the river.The D130E7, I think

Matthew at a snack break we took

Today's ride brought me from Montcaret to Les Eyzies, about 65 miles, mostly flat, long enough for me on a loaded bike. I was lucky to meet up with Matthew, an English cyclist going the same direction. We had met briefly yesterday at the Roman ruins in Montcaret. Again luckily, we ride at a similar speed and rode together for almost the entire route, until he reached his hotel. It was fun, chatting and trading opinions, the miles went by quickly, and the ride was very enjoyable. He had done some serious route planning, and led us through beautiful, tiny little roads that I never would have found. Thanks to him also! Matthew's trip report can be found on Crazy Guy on a Bike, where it is called Gorging on Gorges and is in progress.

Cosmos, in front of the vines, in front of the chateau at or near Monbazillac. Perhaps these are AOC Bergerac vines.

Immediately across the street from the chateau above

Matthew led us across an intricate path of little roads.

Recrossing the Dordogne

I don't know what's inside, but that is a lot of greenhouse space

View Montcaret to Les Eyzies in a larger map



  1. Thanks for your generous comments! It's what being a mapaholic does to one. Hope you had a good day today. Mine was exactly the same length as yesterday (once I'd tacked on a fruitless expedition to the next village in search of bread for dinner) and my legs bore up better, thankfully. Gorgeous roads and countryside here on the cusp of the Lot valley.

    1. Hi Matthew, great to hear from was such a fun day, though I was pretty tired when I arrived here. Of course I forgot to write down the name of the bike site that involves somehow, toast!

      Hope you have a great trip! Enjoy the Gorge du Tarn esecially, and I will watch for your trip report on Crazy Guy. I want to hear all about L'Ardeche.

      Bonne continuation, bon courage, et bonne route!

  2. Replies
    1. Thanks for reading, and commenting ... great to know you're there. I bet the autumn brings some great randonnées......

  3. Lovely country you're visiting ;-)

    1. Ever thought of spending some time there .... maybe riding fast uphill?:-)

  4. Does Matthew have a blog we can follow as well? Loving your photos and tales from the road. Thanks.

  5. He doesn't post enroute, but I think will post to Crazy Guy after returning home.


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