Back to Bordeaux

Montpellier,  Place du Theatre, on my way to the train station

Again today, two major French cities: Montpellier and Bordeaux. Plus, the train on which I travel passed through a third, Toulouse, my favorite. I think of friends I have known there and hope all is well in their worlds. I write this on the train, where Papillon is locked in the bike area near my seat.

This system on local trains works well. Wish the TGV would adopt it.

First, a few photos taken this morning in Montpellier on my way to the train station. For the second time, I have again done Montpellier a disservice by arriving late, needing to leave to leave early. I would like to learn something about this beautiful, very old city. Next time?

The same Place du Theatre from closer to the Tourist Bureau

Close to, or the north end of the same Place. Sad to admit, I saw very little of Montpellier. For the second time.

And a few images taken through train windows. The train stopped in Sète, a town Roy and I stayed nearly 4 years ago. On the train ride today, close to that port, I had my only glimpses of the Mediterranean. This image, though, is of a large étang we passed, on the inland side of the tracks. I believe that translates as pond, in this case saltwater. Oysters are raised here.

A salt water étang just inland from the sea.

Based on the two long trains that I saw travelling in the other direction, trains move cars and motorcycles from place to place here. These are not new vehicles, most of the motorcycles were loaded.

So there will be only the most minimal riding today. From hotel to train station in the morning, in Montpellier, a Mediterranean port city (well, once upon a time a major port.) From train station to hotel in the afternoon, in Bordeaux, an Atlantic port city. When there I will repack Papillon in the travel bag.

This trip has been about cycling mostly, of course, but also about history, and prehistory, and a new concept to me, protohistory. Regular readers know that I am not happy to stop traveling by bike, and it is again true, I am not happy to stop. But it is time. It has been a fabulous trip, a great adventure, and it offered me a chance to meet people I have only known in the blogosphere. What could be better? Tomorrow I fly home, and will be happy to see my husband, family, friends and colleagues.

So, this will be the last post from the road, but glancing at my pictures an idea has gelled. I noticed images which made me smile, images that I have not previously included. From time to time, perhaps weekly, I will make short posts about events, places, phenomena, images from this trip.

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4| Toulouse

Roy took me to Boston’s Logan Airport, then Air France took me to France. Air France moved my bike for no extra charge, a huge consideration and a great help.  (Touring Ideas #1)   It was not an easy task to pack everything: the bike, tent, panniers, camera, clothes, …  gear for a week in a city and 10 days on a bike … in the 70 pounds allotted to by Air France. It occurred to me to wear my helmet as a hat, my heavy bike lock as a belt, several layers of clothing and my bike shoes, not my lighter city shoes. I didn’t do it, for any number of reasons, particularly not wanting to draw attention to myself! Since my backpacking days, I have known that I am the type of traveler who cuts the edges off maps and the long handles off toothbrushes, to get the easiest weight to carry. And I needed to do more than this to get down to 70 pounds. The day before leaving I packed everything as it would be when I got to the gate, weighed it on a medical scale, and removed  several items, including binoculars, that I left home, to make the weight limit. I didn't pull out the flash drive that I carry, loaded with contact info. (Touring Ideas #2)

I knew that the more French I could speak and understand the more fun I would have cycling solo in the remote part of France where I was headed. So although I really wanted more days on the bike, I couldn’t take more vacation, and stayed with my plan: to spend a week in a language immersion program before travelling.  Langue Onze in Toulouse was my choice. Toulouse is a perfect city to spend time in: beautiful, ancient and modern at the same time, chic yet relaxed, and not overwhelmed with tourists. In France, most FLE language schools will arrange home-stays for students. They typically provide both affordable lodging and an easy way to meet people. Happily for me, Langue Onze arranged for me to stay with a delightful French woman named Françoise: her graciousness made for an unforgettable week with much laughter over her delicious dinners.  

My last night in Toulouse I changed plans. I had learned at the train station that it is impossible to take the train from Toulouse to Millau, one can only make the last leg of the trip by bus, and  the bus will not carry bicycles. So I decided to go by train to Montpellier and ride north from there. 

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