Introduction

This bit is timed to post when my plane lands in Toulouse on Friday morning. Ahh, Toulouse! I haven't travelled so very much, but for me it is the very most beautiful, historic, vibrant, liveable and cultured city I have ever spent time in. I can't go back enough. Love it!

First thing I want to write, and think, about when arriving back in France, is how many people I have to thank, and how lucky I am to know them. So, thank you et merci!!! Of course, to my husband Roy, who somehow gets it that it is good and ok for me to spend hours and hours and hours pushing pedals around, and doesn't mind when I arrive home after work and riding, just tired and hungry ... or when I leave the country to ride some more. Et, Georges, je vous remerci mille fois pour m'enseigner la belle langue francaise et aussi parce que vous êtes tellement patient avec moi! That was in my poor French, a million thanks to my teacher and friend George who teaches me the language.

And to Kenny, who has taught me effective cycling techniques and helped enormously ... and the entire Arcadian Shop bike staff for their support and encouragement. I've ridden this summer with groups from the Arcadian Shop, in Lenox, and Berkshire Bike and Board, in Great Barrington.  Both stores have worked miracles in making the Berkshires more bike friendly. They have changed the culture here. Thanks to them both and all the riders involved in both groups. Visit both stores if you visit the Berkshires.

And to my friends Catherine and Matt, always a wealth of information about France, and to Hélène and Pierre, Catherine's brother and belle-soeur (literally beautiful sister, isn't that more lovely than sister-in-law) in Toulouse, where Catherine grew up.

Finally, not lastly, a big-time thanks to you, readers. Your input is most appreciated; I am inspired by your riding and adventures,whether it is touring, or randonneuring, or racing, or climbing, or riding for fun around home; and hope to hear from you! Please do comment if you feel like it.

This trip will be a little different from my past three rides in France. I'm not so much travelling from one place to another as exploring the region of the Pays Basque and the Bearn, both in the Pyrenees. I loved this area last year when visiting, and want to learn more about it. The plan is to stay in one place for two or three days at a time, riding small roads in the area before moving on. It will keep me higher in the mountains, attempting more difficult climbs and harder routes. This is gorgeous country, it provided fabulous riding last year and tempted me with routes that intimidated me then. And of course, it's France. There is sure to be delicious food, beautiful architecture and an incredible long history at every step along the way.

Here's a list, from west to east of possible climbs in the next 3 weeks. And I mean possible, I will only ride a small number of them. Altitudes are all in meters. The list is made from my yellow Michelin map ... these maps are full of useful information. One favorite is the little chevron marks, the direction of the arrow indicates a climb or descent.

     > = 5-9%.

     >> = 9-13%.

     >>> = 13%+.

Sometimes the steepest climbs have a little number next to them, a little number that it is important to notice. For instance, the ride to Col de Méhatché (844m, on the border with Spain) features two sets of >>, and four sets of >>>. The little numbers are 21%, 17% and 19%. This isn't  a long ride from Espelette, maybe only 6 or 7 miles. Now 844m is not so very much, but 17, 19 and 21% are very much, at least in my book.

After a few days of exploring the coast and the foothills just inland, I'll start riding my way from the ocean at St. Jean-de-Luz to Col du Tourmalet. I certainly won't see all of these passes, but will get hopefully experience a number of them. If any of you readers, who I know include way seriously stronger riders than me, have suggestions or favorites, do please add them in the comments box.

Col de St.-Ignace 169

Col d'Ibardin  317m

Col de Pinodiéta 176

Col de Méhatché (border) 844m

Puerto de Oxtondo (Spain) 602

Col d'Ispéguy 672

Col d'Aharza 933

Col d'Arnostéguy (border) 1236
Col d'Orgambidé 988
Col d'Haltza  782
Col de Burdincurutcheta 1135
Col Heguichouri 1284
Col de Bagargui 1327
Col de Erroymendi 1362
Port de Larrau 1573 (border)
Col de Suscousse  1216

Col du Soudet

Col de la Pierre St-Martin 1760 (border)

Pas de Guilhers 1436

Col de Labays. 1351

Col de Lie

Col d'Ichere

Col de Marie-Blanque 1035

Col d'Aubisque 1709

Col de Soulor 1474

Col de Bordères 1156

Col du Tourmalet 2115

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June 7| Toulouse

Place du Capitole

We stayed at La Caravelle, which we picked because the concierge in Béziers had recommended it and it is close to the train station. They stored our bikes for free in their garage. We wanted an easy walk with the packaged bikes when we caught our early morning TGV to Paris.

Cloisters at Les Jacobins

But first we had a day in Toulouse. And Toulouse is perfect. Called the rose city, for its brick architecture, it is possible I was looking through rose colored glasses, but I loved it.  The fourth largest city in France it is a blend of the old and new, with a beautiful old city, the amazing Cathedral St. Sernin and its relics, Les Jacobins, and many gorgeous museums.

I inquired about transporting the bikes on the TGV to Paris at the train station in Toulouse and was told that they must be in bags. We bought bike bags at Décathlon, a large sporting goods store. Sure enough, the bike bags fit exactly into the luggage space. But they had to be stacked one on top of the other. And, sure enough, when I arrived home my derailleur was broken, either on the train or plane. Bags don’t offer the protection boxes do. Also I found it more awkward to carry, and dragging it wore a hole in the bottom. But they did let us on the train.

24 miles Route: Canal du Midi

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4| Toulouse

Roy took me to Boston’s Logan Airport, then Air France took me to France. Air France moved my bike for no extra charge, a huge consideration and a great help.  (Touring Ideas #1)   It was not an easy task to pack everything: the bike, tent, panniers, camera, clothes, …  gear for a week in a city and 10 days on a bike … in the 70 pounds allotted to by Air France. It occurred to me to wear my helmet as a hat, my heavy bike lock as a belt, several layers of clothing and my bike shoes, not my lighter city shoes. I didn’t do it, for any number of reasons, particularly not wanting to draw attention to myself! Since my backpacking days, I have known that I am the type of traveler who cuts the edges off maps and the long handles off toothbrushes, to get the easiest weight to carry. And I needed to do more than this to get down to 70 pounds. The day before leaving I packed everything as it would be when I got to the gate, weighed it on a medical scale, and removed  several items, including binoculars, that I left home, to make the weight limit. I didn't pull out the flash drive that I carry, loaded with contact info. (Touring Ideas #2)

I knew that the more French I could speak and understand the more fun I would have cycling solo in the remote part of France where I was headed. So although I really wanted more days on the bike, I couldn’t take more vacation, and stayed with my plan: to spend a week in a language immersion program before travelling.  Langue Onze in Toulouse was my choice. Toulouse is a perfect city to spend time in: beautiful, ancient and modern at the same time, chic yet relaxed, and not overwhelmed with tourists. In France, most FLE language schools will arrange home-stays for students. They typically provide both affordable lodging and an easy way to meet people. Happily for me, Langue Onze arranged for me to stay with a delightful French woman named Françoise: her graciousness made for an unforgettable week with much laughter over her delicious dinners.  

My last night in Toulouse I changed plans. I had learned at the train station that it is impossible to take the train from Toulouse to Millau, one can only make the last leg of the trip by bus, and  the bus will not carry bicycles. So I decided to go by train to Montpellier and ride north from there. 

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